Nepal's hidden mountains attract a new generation of climbers

Home to eight of the world’s ten highest mountains, Nepal welcomes hundreds of climbers annually, making mountaineering a vital part of its economy. Yet, interest is now expanding beyond the crowded 8,000-metre giants to the unexplored 6,000- and 7,000-metre ranges scattered across the Himalayas.

Untapped potential in the Himalayas

Nepal currently has 462 peaks open for climbing, and around 100 remain unconquered.

“If you only focus on the tallest peaks, your choices are limited,” said French alpinist Paulo Grobel.

“But if you look at 6,000–7,900 metres, there are countless untouched possibilities.”

This autumn alone, the government issued 1,323 climbing permits, with many small, independent teams heading to remote, lesser-known regions.

Revival of the “Alpine Style”

A growing number of climbers are embracing traditional alpine-style expeditions — climbing light, without fixed ropes, supplemental oxygen, or large support teams.

“It’s a huge challenge,” said French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines, who recently made the first ascent of Jannu East (7,468m). “Alpine style is pure and passionate. The adventure is far bigger.”

He believes Nepal’s mid-range mountains offer vast opportunities: “They may not reach 8,000 metres, but they’re deeply underrated and full of promise.”

Sustainability and the future of mountaineering

With overcrowding on Everest and other major peaks, experts say this shift could make the sport more sustainable.

“It’s a beautiful development,” said Billi Bierling of the Himalayan Database. “Younger, skilled alpinists are now exploring more interesting and technical routes. The next challenge is ensuring their safety.”

Remote peaks, Real challenges

Access, however, remains a major obstacle. “In Nepal, the hardest part is getting there,” said Nepali climber Vinayak Malla, nominated for the Piolets d’Or after the first ascent of Patrasi Peak (6,450m).

“Travel is expensive, trails are long, and rescue options are limited,” he said. Yet, these smaller expeditions bring tourism revenue to isolated valleys far from the busy trekking routes.

Promoting the unknown

To boost interest, Nepal recently waived climbing fees for 97 lesser-known mountains, aiming to spread tourism and develop new infrastructure.

“We’re gradually promoting new regions to balance interest and opportunity,” said Himal Gautam, chief of the Tourism Department’s mountaineering section.

Grobel sees this as a continuation of Nepal’s evolving legacy:

“If you’re after true climbing experience, these hidden peaks are where you should go.”