Record number of climbers chase 14-peak dream in Tibet

Only about 50 climbers have climbed all mountain peaks above 8,000 metres (26,250 feet), a feat that took most years, or even decades, to complete.

About 20 are vying for the record books this month, some spurred by a blockbuster Netflix documentary giving the endeavour a wider profile.

Technological advancements have made the feat easier to accomplish.

"We are growing as a community, and we are representing mountaineering all over the world," Pakistani climber Shehroze Kashif, 22, told AFP.

"I think that's great... they are completing their dream, as I am."

It took Italian climber Reinhold Messner 16 years from his initial summit to become the first person in the world considered to have climbed all 14 peaks in 1986.

But most of the climbers assembled in the Chinese Himalayas at the base camp of Mount Shisha Pangma only began their attempts within the past few years.

They have already summited the 13 other highest peaks, located in the Himalayan and Karakoram ranges, straddling Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet and India.

Many have been waiting to scale the 8,027-metre-high (26,335 feet) Tibetan peak since last year, when China closed the mountain to climbers after two American women and their Nepali guides were killed in an avalanche.


- 'Mountains attract them' -

The aspirants are a mix of seasoned veterans and rising stars.

Teenage Nepali climber Nima Rinji Sherpa, 18, aims to be the youngest to climb all 14.

Several hope to be the first from their respective countries to accomplish the feat.

Advances in mountaineering technology, weather forecasting and logistical support have made this once-inaccessible goal more achievable -- particularly for those who can afford it.

Mingma Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks, Nepal's biggest mountaineering expedition company, told AFP that climbers could expect to pay up to $700,000 for full support teams.

But he said the hefty price tag had not dissuaded a growing number of people from pursuing the endeavour.

"They climb one or two, and then the mountains attract them," he said. "Soon they might decide to climb them all".

Teams of support crews and helicopters for rapid transportation between base camps have allowed climbers to tackle multiple mountains in a single season.

"It is clear that the pioneers back then, they did much more difficult, dangerous and exceptional ascents," German mountaineering chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski told AFP.

"Now it is possible to do them within three months. The logistics are so world-class now."

British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja famously completed the 14 peaks in just over six months in 2019, shattering the previous record of seven years.

His efforts were chronicled in a Netflix documentary, inspiring a new wave of athletes to try and eclipse his speed run.

Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Nepali guide Tenjen Lama Sherpa -- the latter who died attempting to summit Shisha Pangma last year -- now hold the record.

They climbed the giant mountains in 92 days, ending in July 2023.

The pair also reached the "true summits" of all the mountains, which many previous climbers had missed.

This month, at least six have already completed the feat after summiting Shisha Pangma, including the first Japanese, Pakistani and female American climbers.

They also included Nirmal Purja again, who this time said he was climbing all 14 without supplementary oxygen.


- 'Another challenge' -

The trend towards speed has not always been welcomed by the mountaineering fraternity.

Veteran climbers have criticised Purja and Harila for using helicopters, pre-prepared routes and support teams.

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, who is aiming to become the first woman from Nepal to summit all 14 peaks, said the style of ascent dictated how much it was valued by other alpinists.

"Some climb 14 peaks... and maybe even have climbed Everest several times, but some don't have the capacity to climb without support," she told AFP.

But Russian climber Alina Pekova, also attempting the Tibetan summit to finish her 14-peak climb, said that speed ascents were an endurance test.

"If you can climb it a fast way, why not try?" she told AFP. "That's another challenge."