Dry summer puts squeeze on French Alps cheese

"Everything's yellow and parched, so we'll have to bring them down from the pastures a month early," said Theo Bargetzy, 28, as cowbells rang out in a field some 1,600 metres (5,250 feet) above sea level.

Crowds of tourists in search of cooler climes have flocked to the Alps this summer where buying local raw-milk reblochon and other hand-made cheeses directly from local producers is a cherished ritual.

But this year, some heading to Bargetzy's Lorettes farm perched above La Clusaz are coming away empty-handed -- cows are not getting their usual fill of fresh grass, and their milk is less rich as a result.

July was the driest month on record for France overall since 1961, and heat waves pushed temperatures near La Clusaz above 30 degrees Celsius (86 Fahrenheit) on several days, unheard-of on the steep slopes.

It takes four litres of milk (just over a gallon) to make each cheese that weighs some 450 grammes (just under a pound) -- within the guidelines set by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), the guardian of France's strict food and wine appellations.

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Dozens of farmers have already dipped into their winter feed stocks, but overall dairy production in the region is down 15 percent from last year's levels, according to the AFTAlp cheese producers' association.

"The situation is difficult -- we've had droughts in the past but this is going on everywhere in France, Italy and elsewhere in Europe," said the association's president Jean-Luc Duclos.

Duclos and his family manage a farm with more than 200 cows for making emmental as well as meat near Frangy, with an app-controlled milking system that would astonish his grandfather, who had "four cows and four hectares to feed 11 children."

What for generations was subsistence farming has become a thriving Alps industry, though most operations are still family affairs that rely on both local and national networks to distribute their stocks.