High drama at the India-Pakistan border, every sundown

Several hours before the ceremony, enthusiastic spectators begin trickling into sitting areas on either side of chunky iron gates separating the nuclear-armed Asian rivals at the Attari-Wagah frontier.

So close that they can see the faces of people on the other side, energetic masters of ceremony and ear-splitting nationalistic songs chivvy up the crowds as Indian and Pakistani flags sway atop immense poles.

On the Indian side there is space for 25,000 spectators -- more than on the other side -- chanting "India Zindabad" ("long live India") as a group of women perform with flags and dance wildly to the patriotic playlist.

Then the soldiers arrive, stomping up to the gate, kicking their legs up -- the Indians in red-fanned hats and khaki uniforms, the Pakistanis in a dapper black.

The climax is when the gates open. One tall Indian soldier twirls his moustache with menacing intent and flexes his biceps, with equally lofty Pakistani soldiers standing just a couple of feet away.

Then the ceremony, officially known as Beating Retreat, draws to a close with the lowering of the flags and a handshake. The flags are folded and the massive iron gates clunk shut.