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Indonesian culinary legend's sweet treats stand test of time

July 12, 2022 / 8:44 AM
Customers gathering round septuagenarian Mbah Satinem (C) as she prepares lupis, a traditional sweet dish
Sharjah24 - AFP: As the morning twilight approaches in an Indonesian city famed for its street food scene, a queue of sleepy customers snakes its way along the road in anticipation of a local culinary legend.

The clock hits 5 am in Yogyakarta and out of the darkness appears a small and frail sarong-clad woman on the back of a black motorbike.

She climbs off slowly, tightly holding a basket that carries the sweet snacks she has been selling for more than half a century.

Now 76 years old, Mbah Satinem was the Indonesian cultural hub's best-kept secret for decades but is today a cooking sensation after shooting to fame in the 2019 Netflix series "Street Food: Asia".

Every day, she opens her stall before dawn and hunches over a table to prepare and dish out traditional market snacks known as jajan pasar.

Displayed on a banana leaf is a selection of treats that includes an Indonesian sweet cake known as lupis made from glutinous rice.

Alongside the star dish is tiwul, which is made using cassava flour, palm sugar and cenil, a worm-shaped tapioca flour jelly.

"I've been selling lupis for a very long time, nothing has changed," she said from the stall she has run since 1963.

"Lupis and I are fated with each other," she added, quietly laughing.
July 12, 2022 / 8:44 AM

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